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With a balmy, sand-fringed Mediterranean coast, scented with jasmine and sea breezes, Tunis is refashioning itself as an ambitiously modern Arab capital. The city is keen on preserving its Mediterranean traditions as well as its Arabic and African roots. It's an attitude reflected in its architecture, with the old Arab medina sat next to the French colonial Ville Nouvelle (New Town). As any other Arabic metropolis, the medina is the historic and spiritual heart of the city. The tangled streets of the medina are crammed with people selling, buying and carting goods around, enveloped in the scent of spices. The contrast with the palm trees and café terraces of the ville nouvelle's avenue Habib Bourguiba could not be greater. Old men in traditional dress watch suited office workers and the young go past in jeans and shirts: this is Tunis. In the suburbs are the wonderful Bardo Museum and the impressive and mysterious ruins of the ancient Carthage, from where Hannibal set forth to drive his elephants over the Alps. Also nearby is Tunisia's most beautiful village, Sidi Bou Said, inspiration to many artists, and the gorgeous white-sand beaches of La Marsa. Tunis is a vibrant yet laid-back capital city that celebrates its Western and Eastern influences and flaunts proudly its cultural heritage.